Summer Skin Series: The Do’s & Don’ts of Summer Skincare
When it comes to summer skincare, there are a few skincare habits you definitely should be adopting, and a few you should be hitting the pause button on. Within this blog I’ll be explaining the summer skincare do’s and don’ts, and most importantly why.
First up let’s look at why some skincare, or more specifically ingredients within a skincare product should be avoided. Similarly to facial treatments, during summer the main reason we need to be careful is due to the increase in sun exposure. Some skincare ingredients are known as photosensitive and therefore increase the risk of damage when there is increased UV exposure.
However, photosensitivity is generally increased by the reaction that certain ingredients cause within the skin, rather than the ingredients themselves causing it directly. Ingredients that increase the turnover of skin cells and aid in desquamation of old skin cells can temporarily cause some inflammation and thin the outer layer of the skin (stratum corneum). This makes the skin more vulnerable to UV damage because the protective barrier is reduced, allowing UV rays to penetrate more deeply and cause damage.
Some common skincare ingredients that may cause inflammation and therefore potential increase in photosensitivity are:
AHA’s- Lactic acid and Glycolic Acid
BHA’s – Salicylic Acid
Retinols and Retinaldehyde
Adapalene (synthetic Vitamin A)
Tretinoin
Benzoyl Peroxide
On the other hand, certain essential oils actually undergo chemical changes when exposed to UV light, leading to a photosensitive reaction. This can cause the skin to burn more easily, leading to sunburn or photodamage.
Care should also be taken when taking some antibiotic medications that may be prescribed for acne or rosacea, or when applying topical prescriptive treatments. If a medication causes photosensitivity, your prescribing Dr should be making you aware of this, but always ensure you are reading over the information leaflet yourself.
So, does that mean you should stop all of your active skincare during summer?
As we now know, it is mainly the inflammation that certain ingredients trigger that then leads to photosensitivity, not the ingredients themselves, and so it’s important to identify what triggers inflammation for you. If you’ve used products containing active ingredients like AHAs or BHAs without any inflammatory response, you can continue using them in the summer, provided you take proper precautions (which I will discuss below). However, summer is not the time to be embarking on a new at-home peel regime as you do not know how your skin is going to respond; the risk of creating inflammation and increasing sun sensitivity is too high.
An ingredient I am always asked about use of during summer is retinol. When first introducing retinol to your regime, it is common to experience a degree of acute inflammation, if you're new to retinol it's best to avoid starting it in the summer due to the risk of this inflammation and therefore subsequent photosensitivity. Experienced retinol users can continue your skincare regime as normal, as long as your skin is well-acclimatised to your retinol product and strength. If you still occasionally experience inflammation, consider reducing the strength of your retinol throughout summer to limit any chance of inflammation.
Precautions still need to be taken when using any active skincare
As always, use sunscreen diligently to protect your skin, as even if your skin is acclimatised use of your products, they can still increase your vulnerability to sunburn.
Wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher
Re-apply your sunscreen every 2-3 hours
Wear a wide brimmed hat when possible
Seek shade and avoid the sun between the hours of 12pm and 2pm
Another point to note is if you undergo regular facial hair removal treatments, be extra diligent with sunscreen reapplication, especially around the lip area, where the skin is thinner and more vulnerable to burning and therefore pigmentation changes.
As the seasons change, so can your skin. It takes time for your skin to adapt to temperature and humidity changes, and with the increase in UV comes an increased risk of hyper-pigmenation. Below are some addtional products you may want to add into your summer skincare cabinet.
Your skin may feel tight and dehydrated even if it usually doesn’t, but Instead of switching to a heavier moisturiser, incorporate a serum or weekly sheet mask with hydrating ingredients like squalane or hyaluronic acid to boost hydration without causing congestion. Support your skin’s barrier function with ingredients like niacinamide (vitamin B3) and ceramides to help your skin retain its moisture.
Warmer weather can make your skin oilier, leading to more of a surface ‘shine’, congestion or potentially increasing breakouts. Oily skin can benefit from regular clay or sulphur-based masks to help absorb excess surface oil and limit chances of congestion and breakouts forming.
If you’re prone to hyperpigmentation, using a tyrosinase inhibitor is essential. Tyrosinase is an enzyme that triggers pigmentation, so inhibitors like kojic acid, arbutin, and vitamin C can help reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C also acts as an antioxidant, protecting against free radical damage.
One skincare habit you shouldn’t skip during the summer is exfoliation. UV exposure can cause the outer stratum corneum to thicken, leading to a dull complexion. To keep your skin looking bright and healthy, regular exfoliation is essential. Use both physical and chemical exfoliants 2-3 times a week to help renew your skin and maintain its radiance. If you normally use AHA’s that cause some peeling, try a more superficial enzyme based exfoliant instead.
Throughout this blog, we've explored the safest and most effective facial treatments and skincare routines for the summer months, as well as those you should avoid. That being said, as we know summer in the UK doesn’t necessarily mean sun, and so if the weather isn’t playing ball then continue your skincare and treatment plan as normal! If you are planning on having advanced facial treatments then plan ahead, looking at the weather forecast for the weeks around your treatment, you will also want to take into account any holidays you have planned. Discuss your summer treatment plan with your facialist as they should be able to best advise what treatments to have and when, to maximise benefits and reduce any risk.
By following these tips and being mindful of how the summer sun affects your skin, you can maintain a radiant complexion all season long.
For personalised advice and treatment plans, don't hesitate to reach out and schedule a consultation. Here's to a summer of healthy, beautiful skin!
