Summer Skin Series: Your Guide To Sun Protection
Dare I say it… summer has arrived in the UK! Our days will now become packed with outdoor adventures, as we all head to parks, beaches, and pub gardens. While the sun is a vital source of vitamin D, the increased exposure to UV rays, heat, and humidity requires us to be diligent about skin care. To keep your skin glowing and healthy all summer long, it's essential to adopt proper sun protection habits.
The number one thing you can do to care for your skin is to wear sun protection Every. Single. Day. Below I will discuss why this is, and the various options available.
Potential Damage
Prolonged and unprotected exposure to the suns UV rays can lead to various types of skin damage, ranging from immediate effects like sunburn and oxidative stress, to long-term consequences such as photodamage and skin cancer.
If the potential risk of skin cancer doesn’t scare you enough into wearing sun protection daily, then maybe the thought of premature ageing might! Many studies have shown that up to 80% of how our skin ages is a direct result of sun exposure. The main cause of this premature ageing is UV radiation, there are two types of UV rays that affect our skin:
UVA rays have the longest wavelength and so penetrate deeper into the dermal layer of skin. They are the cause of some dangerous skin cancers as well as collagen and elastin degradation, resulting in lines, wrinkles and loss of elasticity. UVA rays are around all year long and can penetrate through clouds and windows so there is no hiding from them and the damage they can cause!
UVB rays are stronger in the warmer summer months, they have a shorter wavelength and so primarily affect the outer epidermal layer of skin. They are responsible for sunburn and are the cause of long-term cellular damage and DNA mutations leading to skin cancers.
Both UVA and UVB rays are responsible for pigmentation changes in the skin. Melanocyte cells in our skin produce melanin; melanin is what gives our skin its colour and helps to protect the DNA within our skin cells. Melanin is usually deposited into surrounding skin cells at a steady and even rate, however, when our skin is exposed to high levels of UV our melanocytes go into overdrive, producing excessive amounts of melanin and irregularly depositing it into the surrounding skin cells. This creates localised areas of darker skin colouring, known as hyper-pigmentation. Hyper-pigmentation is notoriously difficult to treat, and it can easily reoccur even after treatment if the melanocytes are reactivated, so it is best to avoid at all costs from the get-go!
As well as UV, the sunlight also emits visible and infra-red rays which generate heat. The temperature increase within the skin can cause thermal damage resulting in overactivity of melanocytes, inflammatory cells being triggered, as well as an increase in the production of MMP-3’s (Matrix metalloproteinase- 3). MMP-3’s are enzymes that break down fibres within the skin, particularly collagen and elastin and so ultimately leading to premature ageing.
So how do we avoid all this damage? There is no way to completely avoid the sun and its rays, and as I have mentioned, we do still require some sunlight to produce essential Vitamin D, but to stand the best chance of limiting the damaging effects of the sun, the number one thing you can do is wear sunscreen Every. Single. Day.
Sunscreen
But how to know what sunscreen to use? How do you know if it’s effective? Here are five checks to determine if your sunscreen is up to the mark:
1. Broad-Spectrum Protection: A good sunscreen should always offer broad-spectrum protection; this simply means it protects against both UVA and UVB rays.
2. Sun Protection Factor (SPF): SPF rating relates to the level of protection against UVB rays only. The SPF number is calculated based on the percentage of UVB rays it protects you from, as well as how long you can stay in the sun without getting burnt. The higher the SPF factor the more protection and longer protection you have. To ensure you are receiving a high level of protection that will last longer than an hour you really want to be using an SPF 30 or higher.
3. Star Rating – This relates to the level of protection from UVA rays, a sunscreen that offers superior UVA protection will have 4+ stars. If the sunscreen meets the EU standard for protection from UVA as well as UVB rays this may also be indicated by displaying ‘UVA’ in a circle. You may also see a PA+ label, this is more commonly used in Asian countries but also relates to the level of UVA protection, with the highest rating being PA++++.
4. Water Resistance- Not all sunscreens are water resistant, this is something to take into consideration when in a hot climate and sweating, as well as when you plan to be in the water. Most water-resistant sunscreens still only remain effective for a maximum of 80 minutes when in water or sweating.
5. UV Filters- UV filters can be categorised into two groups: Physical (mineral) and Chemical. Physical sunscreens contain ingredients like Zinc oxide and Titanium Dioxide, they reflect UV rays off the surface of the skin to prevent them being absorbed. They tend to be better for anyone suffering with sensitive skin as they are not absorbed into the skin. Chemical sunscreens absorb the UV rays so that they are not absorbed by the skin itself. Chemical sunscreens tend to have a lightweight texture making them easy to blend into the skin. There are also sunscreens available that contain a mix of both physical and chemical sunscreens.
The texture and finish of sunscreen is a very individual preference, I always say “the best sunscreen is the one you wear” if you don’t like the feel of the product on your skin, or how it sits under your make up then you aren’t going to be as inclined to use it every day. Test out a few options before you settle on your go-to sunscreen. At my clinic I have a range of testers available so my clients can try before they commit to purchasing, to ensure they have the right sunscreen for them.
“It's ok, I have SPF in my foundation”
This is something I hear far too regularly in my clinic ...Let me explain why you cannot rely solely on the SPF in your makeup for adequate sun protection. While it does provide some level of protection, the amount of makeup typically applied is not enough to achieve the SPF rating on the label. Rarely does make up offer broad spectrum protection, so with only SPF you are only protecting yourself against UVB rays, and not UVA rays which are what cause long-term damage and premature ageing. The SPF within make-up is also usually quite low and so won’t provide high protection and it will become ineffective very quickly.
Application
Once you have the right sunscreen, you need to ensure you are applying it correctly
1. Sunscreen should slot into your skincare routine after any serums or moisturisers, but before your make up. Wait 10 minutes after application before starting your make up.
2. To achieve the level of protection stated on the product you must be applying approx ¼ teaspoon to your face and neck. That is roughly two finger lengths of product, or around a 2p size.
3. Re-apply your sunscreen every 2-3 hours, or more frequently if you are in direct sunlight, swimming or sweating.
Additional Measures
As well as sunscreen there are additional measures you should consider in order to protect your skin from the damaging effects of the sun.
Seek shade where possible, particularly between the hours of 11am and 2pm when the sun is at it’s highest point and therefore at its strongest.
Wear a wide brimmed hat to protect your scalp and help shade your face, and UV blocking sunglasses to protect your eyes.
Protecting your skin from the sun is the easiest, and generally cheapest way that you can prevent premature ageing, skin disease and skin cancers. I am always asked what my number one anti-ageing product is, and my answer is always a good sunscreen! And to wear it Every. Single. Day! (did I mention that already?!). Make wearing your sunscreen a part of your daily routine; your future self will thank you.
In my upcoming blog, I will be guiding you on the best facial treatments and skincare routines to adopt during the summer months to maintain optimal skin health. I will be delving into the most effective treatments to rejuvenate and protect your skin, the essential products to incorporate into your daily regime, as well as the facial treatments and skincare you may be best to avoid.
If you would like to find out the best sunscreen for you and your skin, along with a completely tailored skincare regime, get in touch to schedule a consultation.
